It seems that finally the outcome, but not happy, is not going to be fatal; but things have gotten downright ugly on the Diamir side of Nanga Parbat: This morning, Alex Txikon, Daniele Nardi and Ali ‘Sadpara’ have dropped precipitously C4 (7,200m) to the obvious and serious symptoms of altitude sickness Pakistani showing. At this time and resting at base camp. Although Ali still drag a severe headache, dizziness and some incoherent speech, the situation is fortunately under control.
At 7:30 am, Alex Txikon via walkie from C4 (7,200m): “We expect to open the clouds a bit and paste the sun, and hour and a half left.”
Again at 08:00 am: How long we wait for the fall? Across the walkie, this question was redundant and did sense that something was not quite right. They knew full well, because we had said several times over the previous day, that the day was coming peaceful.
Indeed, at 08:30 they jumped all alarms. Again Alex Txikon across: “We have problems, we have to go down to Ali of here, lose height. No vocalizing, says nonsense and is unable to coordinate his body; It is very bad sign. ”
Loaded with food, medicine and shop, Muhammad Khan started from base camp immediately upward toward the C2 (6.700m), as far as Alex Txikon and Daniele Nardi intended to reach with Ali.
At 7200 meters high, they gathered what they could in their backpacks and hurrying to take the fall. “It’s able to walk alone, but very clumsy and slow.” The last stretch between C3 (6.700m) and C4 (7,200m) has been particularly delicate: “They are long we left unequipped to rise, and now have become very dangerous, Ali comes slip after slip”. Of course, everyone breathed calmer when they reached the fixed ropes, but still have to live down the shovel ice over the wall and the wall itself Kinshoffer, areas that require maximum concentration.
However, at about 14:00 pm, Alex Txikon again contact base camp to confirm that the three had reached the C2 (6.700m) and although still affected, saw Ali whole lot more. “Have you talked to Muhammad Kan radio and has made mourn, which makes us think that it is aware of their situation; that is good”.
After resting a while in the C2, they have been able to make one last effort to C1, so have gone into the corridor where you have crossed Muhammad Khan. The four together, they have come to C1 at 17:00 or so. From there, as less tense, Alex Txikon has given us some more detail about what happened: “Yes we saw very tired yesterday, but we have really realized what happened when in the morning, before leaving, we saw that Mitten was setting as a sock and vice versa. We asked for their age and their children, and the response has been totally incongruous. He had also heard him make funny noises at night, but not partnered with any of this. ”
What now Txikon and Nardi, (and everyone in the CB), are asking is why Ali ‘Sadpara’ not warned before his state, he was not feeling well, since they now do understand and interpret the ” strange “behavior of the Pakistani climber yesterday, within hours of the summit, it was a first sign of what was to come. “We put our trust in him for the attack because he has trodden summit twice. But walked disoriented, as if frightened, until suddenly told us we had the wrong route and had no choice but to return to C4 “. This is an extreme, of course, they should speak up when things get back to normal, because at the moment none of them understood very well what happened, even why they turned so close. Extreme tiredness probably not let them think clearly.
On the other hand, to speak of the criticism on account of the alleged elevation 8,000 Txikon Alex responded, although obviously not eager to talk about it now, that was an estimate and without contrast that casual comment made by radio at that time but that, indeed, is more than likely to stay below. “When we see the pictures we can make a serious estimate, but now is not the time for that,” to what, from here, the author of the sum images and clarifies that the photo spread does not reflect the highest point reached yesterday.
At the moment, the most important thing is that the health of Ali gets better as it has done already and would soon recover fully. “For the good weather has allowed us down and that is a strong guy like himself …”.
Igone Mariezkurrena from the base camp of Nanga Parbat